From 1621 to 2024: The Evolution of the Thanksgiving Feast

Thanksgiving, a uniquely American holiday rooted in gratitude, has undergone a remarkable transformation since its origins in the early 17th century. What began as a solemn feast to celebrate survival and community has evolved into a national holiday marked by traditions, gatherings, and a spirit of thankfulness.

The Origins of Thanksgiving

In 1620, a group of English settlers known as the Pilgrims arrived in North America aboard the Mayflower. They established Plymouth Colony in what is now Massachusetts. That first winter was extremely harsh, and many of the settlers perished due to starvation, exposure, and disease. By spring, approximately half of the original settlers had died. The Pilgrims' survival was significantly aided by the local Wampanoag people, who taught them essential agricultural skills, such as planting maize and using fish as fertilizer.

The first Thanksgiving is believed to have taken place in November 1621. Following a successful harvest season, Governor William Bradford organized a feast to celebrate their survival and prosperity. Approximately 50 Pilgrims and 90 Wampanoag attended this gathering, including the Wampanoag leader Massasoit. This event, described as a "feast," was not called "Thanksgiving" at the time, nor was it a formal holiday. The gathering included food such as venison, wild fowl (likely duck or geese), and corn dishes, though it likely lacked some modern Thanksgiving staples, such as pumpkin pie and mashed potatoes.

Thanksgiving Becomes a National Holiday

The idea of Thanksgiving as a national holiday gained traction in the 19th century, thanks largely to the advocacy of Sarah Josepha Hale, editor of the popular magazine Godey's Lady's Book. After years of campaigning, Hale persuaded President Abraham Lincoln to declare Thanksgiving a national holiday in 1863. Lincoln designated it as a day of "Thanksgiving and Praise to our beneficent Father who dwelleth in the Heavens" in the midst of the Civil War, hoping to foster a sense of unity and healing among Americans (Lincoln, 1863). From then on, Thanksgiving was celebrated annually on the last Thursday in November, and its observance grew steadily across the nation.

Evolving Traditions and Social Customs

As the United States transitioned from a rural society to an industrialized nation, Thanksgiving traditions evolved to reflect the country's cultural and social changes. By the early 20th century, Thanksgiving had become a significant family-oriented holiday, marked by gatherings, feasts, and a growing list of celebratory customs. Football, for instance, became a Thanksgiving staple as early as 1876, when Yale and Princeton universities held the first Thanksgiving Day football game. The tradition of the Thanksgiving Day Parade also began in the early 20th century, with department stores like Macy's using parades to kick off the holiday shopping season—a nod to the consumer-driven nature of modern Thanksgiving.

Food has always been central to Thanksgiving, but the menu has changed considerably over time. The Pilgrims and the Wampanoag likely dined on venison, wild fowl, corn, and native fruits rather than turkey, stuffing, and pumpkin pie (Smith, 2013). Today’s Thanksgiving dinner, complete with roasted turkey, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, and pie, reflects the gradual assimilation of different cultural and regional influences. The meal, while retaining symbolic elements of the harvest, has become a reflection of America's culinary diversity.

Traditional Dishes and How They Have Evolved

Today’s Thanksgiving table often includes a variety of other dishes that have changed over the years, reflecting both historical influences and regional flavors. Some other mainstays include stuffing, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin pie, each with its own unique history.

1. Cranberry Sauce: Cranberries, native to North America, were likely part of early Thanksgiving feasts, though not in the form of the sweetened sauce we know today. Cranberry sauce became more common in the late 19th century, and canned cranberry sauce was first produced in 1912 by the Ocean Spray cooperative, making it a convenient addition to holiday meals.

2. Pumpkin Pie: Pumpkins were also indigenous to the Americas and a staple crop for Native Americans, but pumpkin pie as we know it wasn’t on the menu at the first Thanksgiving. Instead, Pilgrims may have hollowed out pumpkins and filled them with milk, honey, and spices to create a custard-like dish. The first documented recipes for pumpkin pie appeared in English cookbooks in the 17th century, and it became an American Thanksgiving tradition by the 19th century.

3. Turkey as the Main Dish: Today, turkey is the centerpiece of most Thanksgiving meals, with around 46 million turkeys consumed each year in the United States on Thanksgiving Day​.

4. Regional Stuffing Variations: In different regions, stuffing is often customized. The South prefers cornbread dressing, while New England may incorporate oysters or chestnuts. Some Western areas use sourdough, and Pennsylvania’s "filling" combines mashed potatoes and bread​.

5. Side Dishes Vary Regionally: Thanksgiving side dishes vary across the country, with the Midwest and South popularizing casseroles like green bean casserole, often made with canned ingredients. This tradition grew from post-WWII conveniences and mid-century food culture​.

6. Green Bean Casserole’s Origins: This dish, a mixture of green beans, cream of mushroom soup, and fried onions, was created by Campbell’s in the 1950s. It became a Thanksgiving classic, particularly in the Midwest​.

7. Changing Traditions: In modern times, some families opt for unconventional main dishes like ham, roast beef, turducken, or even vegan alternatives such as Tofurkey, reflecting diverse dietary needs and cultural preferences​.

   
   

Changing Attitudes Toward Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving’s meaning has also evolved, with greater awareness of its historical complexities. For many Native Americans, Thanksgiving represents a painful reminder of colonization and the loss of their land, culture, and autonomy. To acknowledge this perspective, the United American Indians of New England have held an annual National Day of Mourning on Thanksgiving since 1970. This event highlights the indigenous perspective on Thanksgiving and serves as a call for reflection on the darker aspects of America’s history.

Many modern Thanksgiving celebrations incorporate a more mindful acknowledgment of Native American history, and educators increasingly teach children a more nuanced story of the holiday. Additionally, some Americans use Thanksgiving as a time for volunteerism and giving back to the community, aligning with the original spirit of gratitude and cooperation that defined the first Thanksgiving gathering.

The Spirit of Gratitude in Modern Times

Despite the many changes in its celebration, Thanksgiving remains one of the most cherished holidays in the United States. It continues to offer Americans an opportunity to come together with loved ones, reflect on the blessings in their lives, and give thanks for the opportunities they have. While some elements of Thanksgiving, such as Black Friday shopping and televised sports, have become emblematic of consumer culture, the core values of gratitude and togetherness endure.

Today, Thanksgiving celebrations differ significantly from those early pilgrim feasts. Yet, the holiday’s continued evolution demonstrates its adaptability, reflecting the values and challenges of each new generation. Thanksgiving celebrations have expanded to include "Friendsgiving," a popular event for young adults where friends gather for a Thanksgiving-style meal, often incorporating unique dishes beyond the traditional family menu​. Thanksgiving remains a testament to the American spirit, a day when people of diverse backgrounds gather around the table to celebrate resilience, community, and gratitude—values that resonate just as strongly today as they did centuries ago.

For a list of all Buhl Library's resources on Pilgrims, Plymouth, the First Thanksgiving, and Thanksgiving Feasts of today, click here.

References

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Dunham, M. (2013). Thanksgiving Day, 1621: Food and recipes from the first Thanksgiving feast. The Colonial Cookery Journal, 10(3), 14-19.

Foodal. (n.d.). Thanksgiving Foods Then and Now. Retrieved from www.foodal.com

Food & Wine. (2021, November 22). Why cranberry sauce is the most controversial Thanksgiving side dish. Food & Wine. https://www.foodandwine.com

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History.com Editors. (2021, November 24). History of Thanksgiving. HISTORY. https://www.history.com

Lincoln, A. (1863, October 3). Proclamation of Thanksgiving Day. The Abraham Lincoln Association. Retrieved from https://abrahamlincolnonline.org/lincoln/speeches/thanks.htm.

Silverman, D. J. (2019). This Land Is Their Land: The Wampanoag Indians, Plymouth Colony, and the Troubled History of Thanksgiving. Bloomsbury Publishing.

Smith, A. (2013). The Thanksgiving Story: Pilgrims, Indians, and the Holiday Myth. American Heritage Books.